Homemade Caesar

Whisk, whisk, whisk!

Well, after finals, Peru, and lab presentations I found time to do something! I've been wanting to try out a caesar dressing for awhile and I had most of the ingredients on hand so here it is. This version, which is a mix of a couple of recipes, includes egg yolk, olive oil, vegetable oil, lemon juice, garlic, anchovy, a dash of worcestershire sauce and dijon mustard, salt, pepper, and parmigiano reggiano. Whisk the yolk and the oil together slowly and then combine the rest of the ingredients to mix. Done, simple, and delicious! Unfortunately, this dressing is one of those things that once you make it and realize what exactly is in it you can't eat it very often anymore. Bah.

Mise en place

I made this two nights in a row and I tweaked it the second time to better suit my tastes. I started with one egg yolk, 1/4 cup oil (I did olive), 2 anchovy fillets minced, ~2 garlic cloves minced, probably 3 tablespoons cup lemon juice, a dash of worcestershire and dijon, salt, pepper, and a hefty amount of parmigiano reggiano. This was pretty good, but I thought it could be more...pure? The second night I started out the same with the egg and oil and then did 3 fillets, 1 garlic clove, 1.5 tablespoons lemon juice, no worcestershire, 1/2 teaspoon dijon, salt, pepper, and a small grating of parmigiano reggiano. I thought this version was a lot more clean and more simple tasting, which I liked more!

Bacon Jam

I first heard about bacon jam from my brother who saw it at a pop up bake shop. However, it was closed by the time he noticed it. Upon hearing this I decided that I should try making it myself...being that it had bacon it seemed right up my alley. Essentially, bacon jam is more of a bacon spread and consists of reduced onions, bacon, and some type of sugar (I used maple syrup). It goes something like this: cook bacon and remove, cook onions until nicely browned, add back bacon and flavorings along with the maple syrup, reduce, and process. I though it turned out pretty well, but next time would probably add something along the lines of bourbon to get more depth of flavor. It seems like it would work well on a breakfast sandwich, burger, or simply on some crostini! 

Guacamole

One of the things that my parents taught me, and I'm extremely grateful for, is an appreciation for guacamole. And I don't mean that cumin/paprika/whatever scented, cayenne pepper spiced stuff nor that ready made guacamole mix that may or may not come in a bag. I mean the pure stuff. Avocados, onion, chile (serrano or jalapeno), cilantro, and salt. Maybe some garlic or a tiny bit of tomato as well. That's it. Nothing more. At least that's what my parents taught me and it has stuck. If I took one thing away from my child hood it would be this mixture of ingredients with no exact measurements and I am eternally grateful for it (oh, and so my parents aren't horrified that the only thing I learned from them is how to make guacamole I did gain a appreciation for thoughtful gift giving!).

Guacamole is very easy to make and quick (unless you're my dad who spends 40 minutes chopping, which may or may not be due to the TV in kitchen). But, somehow it gets butchered often with the addition of odd ingredients and the lack of proper salt/acid seasoning. I say let the avocados speak for themselves with some enhancement from salt and acid and a little background heat. Ironically, I loved our families guacamole, but refused to eat a slice of avocado on its own. Oh well. Things change.

It's great because guacamole has a variety of uses such as a side dish with some chips or a condiment for tacos, burritos, quesadillas, sandwiches, and so on. Either way I say keep it pure and delicious! I'm using mine for some pulled pork...we'll see how well they marry.

One of the things I love about making
 guacamole: How great the ingredients look!

Napa Cabbage Kimchi

I found out while looking for kimchi recipes that everyone has their own variation. Some have sugar. Others call adding sugar a sin. Some ferment for a few days outside the fridge, others buried in the ground for months, others begin in the fridge. Soon I was overwhelmed by the variations in recipes I had been finding and decided to settle with the Momofuku cookbook's version since it was one of the most simple and I've actually tried the end result.

Kimchi is a fermented pickle so the flavor of the end product will vary on how long it is left to ferment. Some recipes call for leaving it at room temperature for 3-7 days then sticking it in the fridge. I even found a refrigerator specifically for making kimchi! Momofuku's recipe calls for starting the fermentation in the fridge, which seemed a bit odd to me since it seems to cold inside to really get a good ferment going, but whatever. I'll take their word for it.

The basic ingredients are cabbage, carrots, green onion, sugar, garlic, ginger, kochukaru (Korean chile powder), fish sauce, and soy sauce. Everything besides the cabbage, carrot, and green onions is pureed and then added to the vegetables and put in the fridge. The book says it's best after 2 weeks of fermentation so that is when I tried it. Two things. First, there was WAY to much brine...I could probably half or fourth the recipe next time. Second, I didn't think the kimchi actually tasted all that great. It was OK, but didn't taste ferment-ey enough for me (and I like fresher rather than funkier kimchi)!

But, both of these problems turned out to be good. I used the kimchi for a kimchi fried rice so the extra brine turned out to be great flavoring and the kimchi worked really well. I think I'd opt for a new recipe next time I do this, but it wasn't terrible for a first try. Or, I'd try leaving it out on the counter for 2-3 days before sticking it in the fridge to find out if the flavor is enhanced at all.

Culture Club 101 Class: Part II

My last post on the Culture Club 101 class was me rambling and trying to lay these various processes out to better understand them. With that in mind I'll focus this one more on the class itself, what we learned, and why you would do it!

Culture Club 101 is a local Pasadena business that has a co-op and a stall at the Farmer's Market. I often pick up my vegetables for this blog at the farmers market they attend and have past by their booth each time usually muttering under my breath something about stupid hippies and their cultured sodas and kombuchas. It wasn't until Jessica visited me recently that I actual stopped at their stall to try and sample some of their products. Jessica, like my brother, is becoming more and more into kombucha while she leaves me behind arguing that it tastes like vinegar. So, being that Culture Club offers kombucha she wanted to stop and try it. We got to try their kombucha and their only cultured soda left, which happened to be apple cider.

Oh man, good kombucha is actually very good.

Slightly vinegary, but not overpowering. However, it has nothing on cultured sodas, which uses a similar process (fermentation), but are just not left as long. The sodas are insanely refreshing, fizzy, and have no sugar since the fruit juice has plenty in it to feed the microogranisms and still taste good! After tasting these I noticed that they offered classes in culturing fruits, sauerkraut, buttermilk, creme fraiche, sourdough, kombucha, and many more that were all focused around fermented goods.

The point of all this fermentation is to a) make the product naturally, b) preserve it, c) add a unique taste, and d) add healthy vitamins/probiotics. I basically think it's a cool process (nerdy) and has a delicious unique taste that I haven't found elsewhere so I decided to take their class on fermented fruits and fruit juices.

We got to make three things including cultured raspberries, spicy preserved mango salsa, and cultured fruit juice sodas.

Cultured raspberries? Uh, what? Sounds weird, but you have to trust me that they are delicious and the same goes for mangoes. It ends up being a bit tangy with a slight effervescence that you can increase or decrease depending on how long you let the fruit ferment for. It's simply 4 cups raspberries, 1/4 cup sugar (for the bacteria and yeast along with flavor), 1/4 cup milk whey (starter culture). This is all mashed together and then put in jars and sprinkled with some lemon juice. As I mentioned in my last post it's important to use organic raspberries since pesticides could inhibit the growth. This is left to sit out for 1-2 days until it's done, which is easy to tell if you use a pop-top lid because you won't be able to depress the lid anymore due to all the carbon dioxide released during the fermentation process. These raspberries and mangoes are fantastic over creme fraiche!















Same process basically goes for the spicy mango salsa except that you don't need any sugar since sugary salsa is, well, gross. There is enough in the fruit to keep everyone happy during fermentation. I haven't tried this one yet so we will see how it goes.


Now, the REAL reason I took the class. The culture fruit sodas. Mmm, so refreshing and fresh fruit juice is always a good thing. These were super simple it turns out and are just a gallon of organic fruit juice with two cups of culture starter whether it be milk whey, a bug, or kombucha. These are also left out to ferment for 1-2 days. Certain fruits will work better than others and just takes some experimentation. We made a pomegranate juice with the milk whey as the starter culture.

All of these sound kinda weird at first (like I said I scoffed at their booth many time), but you really just have to try it to be convinced.

Plus these all have potential benefits! I have to be a bit nerdy, but I'm not going to go in depth here. Both the fruit and the fermentation of the fruit have health benefits. Many fruits have natural antioxidants that protect against oxidative damage, which may occur naturally during aging or is induced by an unhealthy life style (ex. alcoholism). Oxidative damage can lead to protein and DNA damage along with lipid oxidation all of which have harmful effects on cells. Fermentation produces byproducts, such as certain vitamins, which are beneficial to us. The actual bacteria may be beneficial as well in terms of influencing our natural gut flora (i.e. fighting off bad bacteria, ect.).

(This is a picture of your gut epithelial; http://greaterimmunity.com/Files/probiotics.html)

I thought this image summed up nicely and simply why probiotic bacteria may be beneficial. 

Side note: my picture of all the goods we made is hardly fantastic in terms of composition or lighting, but I did need some external lighting as my kitchen bulbs are this weird, dim yellow that you can partially see in the final photo. I do try somewhat to compose and light my pictures (I got lazy like here) and I thought my lighting "set up" was particular funny for this particular photo.

Ancho Chile Blackberry Syrup

If you know me you'll know my affinity for Mexican food.

Er, OK, more like obsession.

Being in LA I consider myself blessed  with the multitude of taco trucks to choose from and, usually, a salsa bar to indulge upon. I think my love for this street food partially stems from these variety of salsas and condiments. I love salsas partially because of the heat that they can pack. For as long as I can remember my dad has called me "asbestos mouth" (as well as numerous other, um, charming names), which had to do with  dumping cayenne powder all over my pasta. I really don't know where this was going except for the fact that it leads me to the fact that I like spicy food. And what this means, getting back to my first point, is that I love the unending number of chiles that Mexican food has to offer not only because of their heat, but also because of their flavor.

Initially, this recipe was published in Gourmet and called for dried pasillas as the chile of choice. The rest of the recipe is pretty simple: lemon juice, dark brown sugar (I used light), cane sugar, water, and blackberries. Being that I didn't see feel like braving the LA traffic (and because I'm lazy) I decided not to go to Grand Central Market for their wonderful chile selection, but instead I picked up some dried ancho chiles from Whole Foods. Upon opening the bag I realized I forgot how raisin like these chiles got when dried. Woops. Oh well, it's all I had so I moved forward. Basically, you make a syrup by boiling the lemon juice, water, and sugars together and infuse it with the chiles (aka throw them in...seeds and all) then stir in a blackberry puree when the syrup has cooled. As you can see from the picture three measly chiles yielded A LOT of seeds (insert flash backs to deseeding chiles at Thanksgiving for a mole). From my earlier rambling you'll remember that I love spicy food so needless to say I was excited at this site...the possibility of a spicy yet sweet syrup!

After the syrup had cooled and I added the blackberry puree it was time to try it. Hmm. Apparently the anchos were more raisin-ey than I expected because it was all I could taste. AND NO HEAT. So much for appreciating the variety of flavors that chiles have to offer. There was a little blackberry taste there, but not much.

Great...I essentially made raisin syrup and could have left out two decently expensive ingredients.

Since I now had about a cup and a half of the stuff I thought I might as well use it. I though that some drinks were a good application and a made a ancho chile blackberry rye cocktail with a little muddled mint. Hm...not bad actually. Although it still tasted raisin-ey (ugh) the heat was beginning to linger on my tongue halfway through. Interesting. I also made a ancho chile blackberry soda with just the syrup and some club soda, which actually tastes pretty good if you ignore what I was actually trying to achieve.

I suppose next time I'll try using guajillo or the called for pasilla to get rid of the raisin flavor. If those fail to achieve a good heat level I might just throw in a habenero for good measure. Also, I think the flavor of blueberries might not be overpowered as easily as the blackberry was. But before all of that I need to get rid of a bunch of ancho chile blackberry syrup. Maybe a good sauce or rub for venison? Throw some grilled strawberries on the plate as well....hmmm.

"Quick" Crema

This weekend I got the opportunity to brush up on my Mexican cooking since Jessica made a surprise visit! I've been hankering to make some chile rellenos from a cookbook by Diane Kennedy. I thought I'd fill one with potatoes and roasted corn and another with a mild cheddar then pair them with a salsa ranchera that is typically used with huevos rancheros. Crema is a sort of Mexican sour cream, however it is much lighter in flavor and a bit creamier making it a good yet unobtrusive condiment to dishes like fish tacos and chile rellenos. I wanted to make homemade crema, but upon discovering that you basically have to let a starter culture from yogurt ferment some heavy cream for a few days I decided to make a quick crema by mixing 1:1 sour cream to heavy cream and adding a tiny bit of yogurt. This was then placed in a warm place for ~5 hours. I thought it turned out well, was just barely sour yet had a really nice texture, and didn't take multiple days (we can save that for another project)! Crema can be fancied up a bit with either some lime zest or a chipotle in adobo blended in.

Side note...I now have new respect for the batter on chile rellenos. This is clearly something I still need to perfect.

Jalapeño Jelly

When I first visited Jessica in her new apartment on Manhattan she had stocked her pantry with delicious provisions including a haberno jelly that went great with goat cheese. Seeking to replicate this I tried to find a similar recipe, but the closest one I found was jalapeños, which was close enough for my first try. I thought I could tweak later once I got the basics down.

Pectin is an important factor for any jelly since it is the agent that causes the gel to form. You can usually purchase extracted pectin (often from apples or citrus) or you can use a natural source by including a fruit high in pectin. This recipe uses apples as a natural source of pectin. Pectin is a polysaccharide (basically a special type of sugar) meaning that it forms chains and has molecules sticking off itself. When heat, sugar, and fruit is added to pectin the acid in the fruit will changed the charge on the pectin's branches causing it to change shape and trap water. The sugar and heat help decrease the amount of water in the solution thus decreasing the solubility of pectin allowing it to trap water more easily and thus a gel forms. Getting a gel to form is a common place for things to go wrong in jams or jellies, but luckily I got it to work the first time.

The main ingredients were apples (for pectin), some jalapeños, and cranberries (mostly for color). Using the apples as a natural source of pectin was nice, however I think it imparted too much apple flavor that overpowered the jalapeño, which was to subtle for me. I'm partial to in your face heat. I consulted Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home, since I knew it had some jellies in it, and I think I'll try using commercial pectin next time to eliminate the need for the apples and switch to habernos for more heat. Also, I think this jelly would be good with bits of haberno in it instead of completely clear so I think I'll add some cooked chopped bits to the jars after I boil the sugar, vinegar, pectin, and whole habernos and pour it. Stay tuned!

Fresh Sweet Sriracha (Rooster sauce)

Typically sriracha (or as I called it rooster sauce) is a fermented sauce. But, you can still take the basic recipe and serve it fresh. It won't have the same taste as the fermented version, however it is still very good and can be enjoyed immediately!I made mine pretty sweet, which I think made it better as a sauce than a dip.

I got the base for this recipe from Viet World Kitchen blog.Think I might her fermented version soon.

3/4 lb fresno peppers split lengthwise and chopped (trim the top of the stem off)
4 cloves of garlic
1 1/4 teaspoon salt
2.5 ounces brown sugar or Vietnamese palm sugar (less if you don't want it sweet)
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water

Combine all the ingredients in a sauce pan and simmer for 5-10 minutes. Cool down and blend. Push mixture through a strainer and store in the refrigerator.

(Extremely) Hot Sauce

Hot sauce is one of those things that everyone should keep in their pantry or refrigerator. It goes great with so many things and given my love for Mexican food, homemade hot sauce is the perfect thing to make and keep around all the time. Summer has yielded many a pepper at the farmers markets so I decided to take advantage and picked up some fresh jalapenos and serranos to finally make my own hot sauce. You can easily adjust the amounts of peppers or types in the following, but be aware that changing the types will affect flavor (which isn't a bad thing).

1.5-2 lbs of peppers (I used 1 pound jalapenos and 1/2 pound serranos)
2 1/4 - 2 3/4 cups white vinegar (I found like it more on the vinegary side after making it again...experiment to your taste)
4 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons salt
2-3 garlic cloves

Makes 2 pints

Roast all the peppers either under the broil, over a BBQ, or on top of the stove. Let them cool until you are able to handle them and cut off the stem. Add all of the ingredients to a blender or food processor. Puree until it reaches a desired consistency (or do what I did and just walk away for a few minutes). Pour into a jar and keep refrigerated. It will probably last a few months if not a year, but will lose heat over time.

This makes very hot sauce so feel free to play with the amounts of serranos or replace a few with poblanos.